Photo taken from: http://noneco.wordpress.com/2011/02/25/jesse-martinez/
I just spent about an hour writing about my brother Bob and how he learned Method Airs form Jesse Marinez, but then somehow lost all the writing by clicking a wrong tab on my blog page.
Well, I'll save most of it for next time.
There is a photo somewhere buried at my moms house of my brother Bob looking exactly like this doing a method air... down to the toe hanging off the back end of the board. I remember, shortly after seeing Jesse blast airs at a demo around 1987, Bob was blasting airs a few weeks after. It seemed like in one week he learned Method Airs, Judo Airs, Frigid Airs, tweaked out Japan Airs, 360 Airs. He totally taught himself and then everyone else in the neighborhood modeled after him. I had to practice doing method air motions in Ron Sabo's pool, another skater in our neighborhood, then pull it off in a dream sleeping, before ever doing it in reality.
Shout out to you Brother Bob and all my skate bros from Suffern, NY- Ron Sabo, Eric Lynn, Rob Blandi, Jimmy Lynch, Mike Singer, Matt Duffy, John Sansone, and Brian Pistolesi.
Anyway before I erase this by accident again, I'll sign off.
Taught my first skate lesson last Sunday.
It was fulfilling and felt so natural.
I look forward to teach again next Sunday.
I learned that if I try to control their skate exercises, it stunts their performance.
But actually each skater is different and requires different types of attention.
Teaching is like surfing. No two waves are the same... yeah yeah. I'll tell you later.
Gotta spend time with wifey before bed.
I did it.
I'm very stoked, but exhausted.
Got shacked twice. It was a memorable experience
I think I was a dumb though and let all my energy out by telling friends I ran into.
tell you more tomorrow.
Maybe this will make you feel better.
On the skate home tonight I hit a deep crack in the sidewalk and wiped out
as hard as you can wipe out off a crack in the street.
There was a thud sound when I hit the sidewalk concrete.
I slammed so hard onto my elbow and back pack, but got up and cruised on before the people at the red light who saw the whole thing could heckle me.
Gotta go to bed. I'll tell you better details tomorrow.
Surfs up on the South Shore.
Gotta be at work at 8am.
Leave the house at 7 to catch the bus.
Gonna try and squeeze in a Super Dawn Patrol.
Wake at 4:20
Leave house at 4:45.
Get in ocean by 5am.
Surf for an hour and a half.
be out by 6:30.
Hussle home, drop off car.
and skate to the bus to make it to work.
I can actually probably leave for work by 7:15am.
that may give me a little more time to get shacked.
I have this vision that I just might get shacked tomorrow.
I'll keep you posted.
As long as I actually make it in the water and catch a few and
make it to work on time, I'll be stoked.
It's 10:20pm and I'm folding diapers and laundry.
Gotta hussle to bed.
I haven't blogged in a while because I heard on NPR that there were millions of people blogging every day and all of sudden I am re-evaluating blogging.
I realized recently that one of the most important things in life is being or learning how to be a great friend and maintaining great friends. Better yet being family. So much to balance in life, but this is one of the balls to keep in the juggling act for sure.
Thanks for the board Uncle! Here is a Swicth Nosebone with my Moms panties around my neck. Dad calls me Mini Hosoi. Here is an interview he did with him a few years back before I was born.
Writing actually helps communicate the complex feelings and experiences we have. The more we write and read, the better we get at communicating. One day I will be able to share the feelings I get when I'm in the water. I know this sounds dirty, but I told my friend Luke the other day when the South Shore had a good swell, I said, I'm so stoked. I'm gonna go molest those waves." I actually feel that way, and sometimes I feel the wave likes it. Sometimes I feel like the wave likes to get dirty with me, wants to get aggressive and sadomasochistic.
As a visual artist it is also good to be able to make that picture that says a thousand words. But for this moment I write. I need to work on my visual art skills. Balance it all.
When I was in the Philippines for a month, my family had a going away party for me. When they demanded a speech, I started reciting names of cousins, aunts and uncles I wanted to thank, and someone shouted out "Don't start with the names, because you'll leave someone out and they'll get upset." or something along these lines. I have a lot of aunts, uncles, and cousins. And as far as friends, there are a bunch that mean a lot to me and that have shaped who I am today. I feel lucky. The Internet keeps some of us together.
I don't have everything figured out, and I know I never will. That is like saying, I know what the wave will do. I know enough that waves will always eventually come, and I will catch a few, and that the wave always ends, but I can always paddle back for more, and that when the day is done, a new swell will always be back soon. And that the more you surf, the better you get.
Where am I going with this?
I don't know.
I 'll let you figure that out.
These were waves of words that your mind just surfed.
If you like the wave, maybe you'll come back for more.
I like that about Home Breaks (the wave you surf most)
Aloha.
Actually this didn't happen. I called up the surf report and it said it was cloudy and the wind was picking up on the North Shore. I convinced my wife Marisa to go to NS for family day so I can fit in a surf at Haweiwa Beach Park. I knew if I brought her up there and it was cloudy, it wouldn't be fun for her and our son Hayden. I didn't want to do that to her. She's always wanted to take Hayden to the Children's Museum, so we did that and it was good times.
Good to see you in the ocean today Buck.
Buck in my mind one a trophy for best wave in the 2.5 hour surf session I was out...
Out of maybe 20 or more dudes in the line up.
He often chose the right wave that lined up all the way to the inside maybe over 50 over yards.
Dropping in from the top and getting it so good.
Caught some fun one myself, but gotta hand it over to Brother B.
Buya!
Lets see if I can pull a dawn patrol before work tomorrow.
Breathe Deep, Smile, Stretch, Go Work/Play, Hang Out with family/friends.
Repeat. Add a few more things like Cook Dinner and Homework if you can handle.
Actually I want to add more. Especially to my my homeboys that may be getting a little tired and worn.
1) Bros, think about the 68 year old dudes and older running the New York Marathon. That keeps me going. There is no doubt that in life you need stamina and physical strength. So lets take care of our bodies. Come visit me in Hawaii Dammit! Where my door is open for you always and where the weather treats your body super good.
2) And on relationships with a spouse, when it starts to get a tad bit old and stale, even on a weekly basis, its good to take a look at photos of you and your lady from the past to the present having good times. If that doesn't make you walk up to your woman and give her a massage. Then..... uhhh try something else, but it works for me.
I say to myself, "Hay, these are the photos I'm gonna be looking at when I'm regretting that I split up with my wife.
It almost always puts me in the right mind set like damn I love my wife, why am I so selfish. I gotta be the man and be there for her and my kid. I gotta be strong UUUUHHHHH!!!! BREATHE DEEP.
POW BOOM. MR MIAGI STYLES. WORK HARD WITH MOST EFFICIENCY.
Harness Power from within because we need it to keep going.
Breathe Deep and get that oxygen to keep on Climbing to the top so we can say, "Yeah" again and again.
I know I may being vague but...
Good night.
Aloha Oe LOS!
Mayonaisse.
One of the top five things to learn in life is how to have friends.
How to be a good friend or better yet a best friend.
If you can't do this then you haven't lived I'm convinced.
I feel lucky
Maybe it's one, two or three. The more the merrier.
I have a lot to say about this topic, but first I better go hang out with my wife. She's my friend too you know.
Play this and read.
Even though I don't have a full time job yet. Today was good.
Here's why in random order:
Spent the first half of the afternoon applying for jobs.
I found this song on Pandora while cooking dinner with my son.
He stirred the cut potatoes and mixed them up in a pot with the salt and spices.
While I cut and prepped other ingredients.
How to conserve water tip.
Jump in the tub after your baby if you have one.
Or better yet take a bath with your kid before he or she gets too old. Its good times.
If your tub is big enough throw mom in there too.
After applying to jobs
Skated the skate park and the right combo of homeboys were there including Hartsel and Torian and James and.... the sun put the golden light across the park. I always skate better when certain people are around. Hartsel is one of them.
Unlike skating with my good old friend Jeff Pang, I used to always get hurt when I skated with him, but I'll tell a few of those stories another time.
It rained some so we had to skate under the bridge and session two obstacles at one point. Its always fun when this happens cuz everyone can session together. I was bugging out (havin' good times) saying outloud, "If I'm a real skater, I should be able to do a frontside grind" then do it. "If I'm a real skater I should be able to do a frontside board-slide" and do it, etcetera etcetera. Skating the park reminds me of when I first started skating everyday after school at the "tennis courts" with my neighborhood bros. Only I don't skate everyday, but...
My wife's description of this blog
Blah blah blah blah surfing surfing
Blah blah blah blah surfing surfing
Blah Blah Blah surfing
Surfing Surfing.
Yeah so I'm writing about skateboarding.
Here's what I learned skating today.
If you want to learn a trick, imagine yourself doing it as much as possible-The feeling and actual movement when and where to breathe, the direction of your shoulders, arms, head, feet. Then go for it. Try it twenty times if you have to, one hundred times. As long as each try doesn't involve a skull crack. If this is the case, wear a helmet. Roll around and do tricks you can land in between to have some fun while you're at it.
If you don't land it that day, save it for next time. Because if you're too stubborn and keep trying it until the sun goes down and you're late for dinner, wifey won't be happy. This I didn't do. My deal is I always have to make it to wifey before the sun goes down so we can enjoy it set together. I think if might of taken me a year to learn to ollie. Thank the universe I didn't give up. I may have tried it over a hundreds of times. Some things take hundreds and hundreds of times doing it until grace starts to appear.
