Friday, June 24, 2011
Realization
I realized recently that one of the most important things in life is being or learning how to be a great friend and maintaining great friends. Better yet being family. So much to balance in life, but this is one of the balls to keep in the juggling act for sure.
Friday, June 17, 2011
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Hayden Skate
Thanks for the board Uncle! Here is a Swicth Nosebone with my Moms panties around my neck. Dad calls me Mini Hosoi. Here is an interview he did with him a few years back before I was born.
Monday, June 13, 2011
Words
Writing actually helps communicate the complex feelings and experiences we have. The more we write and read, the better we get at communicating. One day I will be able to share the feelings I get when I'm in the water. I know this sounds dirty, but I told my friend Luke the other day when the South Shore had a good swell, I said, I'm so stoked. I'm gonna go molest those waves." I actually feel that way, and sometimes I feel the wave likes it. Sometimes I feel like the wave likes to get dirty with me, wants to get aggressive and sadomasochistic.
As a visual artist it is also good to be able to make that picture that says a thousand words. But for this moment I write. I need to work on my visual art skills. Balance it all.
When I was in the Philippines for a month, my family had a going away party for me. When they demanded a speech, I started reciting names of cousins, aunts and uncles I wanted to thank, and someone shouted out "Don't start with the names, because you'll leave someone out and they'll get upset." or something along these lines. I have a lot of aunts, uncles, and cousins. And as far as friends, there are a bunch that mean a lot to me and that have shaped who I am today. I feel lucky. The Internet keeps some of us together.
I don't have everything figured out, and I know I never will. That is like saying, I know what the wave will do. I know enough that waves will always eventually come, and I will catch a few, and that the wave always ends, but I can always paddle back for more, and that when the day is done, a new swell will always be back soon. And that the more you surf, the better you get.
Where am I going with this?
I don't know.
I 'll let you figure that out.
These were waves of words that your mind just surfed.
If you like the wave, maybe you'll come back for more.
I like that about Home Breaks (the wave you surf most)
Aloha.
As a visual artist it is also good to be able to make that picture that says a thousand words. But for this moment I write. I need to work on my visual art skills. Balance it all.
When I was in the Philippines for a month, my family had a going away party for me. When they demanded a speech, I started reciting names of cousins, aunts and uncles I wanted to thank, and someone shouted out "Don't start with the names, because you'll leave someone out and they'll get upset." or something along these lines. I have a lot of aunts, uncles, and cousins. And as far as friends, there are a bunch that mean a lot to me and that have shaped who I am today. I feel lucky. The Internet keeps some of us together.
I don't have everything figured out, and I know I never will. That is like saying, I know what the wave will do. I know enough that waves will always eventually come, and I will catch a few, and that the wave always ends, but I can always paddle back for more, and that when the day is done, a new swell will always be back soon. And that the more you surf, the better you get.
Where am I going with this?
I don't know.
I 'll let you figure that out.
These were waves of words that your mind just surfed.
If you like the wave, maybe you'll come back for more.
I like that about Home Breaks (the wave you surf most)
Aloha.
Sunday, June 12, 2011
GONE SURFING
Actually this didn't happen. I called up the surf report and it said it was cloudy and the wind was picking up on the North Shore. I convinced my wife Marisa to go to NS for family day so I can fit in a surf at Haweiwa Beach Park. I knew if I brought her up there and it was cloudy, it wouldn't be fun for her and our son Hayden. I didn't want to do that to her. She's always wanted to take Hayden to the Children's Museum, so we did that and it was good times.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
Monday, June 6, 2011
Shout out to Buck
Good to see you in the ocean today Buck.
Buck in my mind one a trophy for best wave in the 2.5 hour surf session I was out...
Out of maybe 20 or more dudes in the line up.
He often chose the right wave that lined up all the way to the inside maybe over 50 over yards.
Dropping in from the top and getting it so good.
Caught some fun one myself, but gotta hand it over to Brother B.
Buya!
Lets see if I can pull a dawn patrol before work tomorrow.
Buck in my mind one a trophy for best wave in the 2.5 hour surf session I was out...
Out of maybe 20 or more dudes in the line up.
He often chose the right wave that lined up all the way to the inside maybe over 50 over yards.
Dropping in from the top and getting it so good.
Caught some fun one myself, but gotta hand it over to Brother B.
Buya!
Lets see if I can pull a dawn patrol before work tomorrow.
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Tip
Breathe Deep, Smile, Stretch, Go Work/Play, Hang Out with family/friends.
Repeat. Add a few more things like Cook Dinner and Homework if you can handle.
Actually I want to add more. Especially to my my homeboys that may be getting a little tired and worn.
1) Bros, think about the 68 year old dudes and older running the New York Marathon. That keeps me going. There is no doubt that in life you need stamina and physical strength. So lets take care of our bodies. Come visit me in Hawaii Dammit! Where my door is open for you always and where the weather treats your body super good.
2) And on relationships with a spouse, when it starts to get a tad bit old and stale, even on a weekly basis, its good to take a look at photos of you and your lady from the past to the present having good times. If that doesn't make you walk up to your woman and give her a massage. Then..... uhhh try something else, but it works for me.
I say to myself, "Hay, these are the photos I'm gonna be looking at when I'm regretting that I split up with my wife.
It almost always puts me in the right mind set like damn I love my wife, why am I so selfish. I gotta be the man and be there for her and my kid. I gotta be strong UUUUHHHHH!!!! BREATHE DEEP.
POW BOOM. MR MIAGI STYLES. WORK HARD WITH MOST EFFICIENCY.
Harness Power from within because we need it to keep going.
Breathe Deep and get that oxygen to keep on Climbing to the top so we can say, "Yeah" again and again.
I know I may being vague but...
Good night.
Aloha Oe LOS!
Mayonaisse.
Repeat. Add a few more things like Cook Dinner and Homework if you can handle.
Actually I want to add more. Especially to my my homeboys that may be getting a little tired and worn.
1) Bros, think about the 68 year old dudes and older running the New York Marathon. That keeps me going. There is no doubt that in life you need stamina and physical strength. So lets take care of our bodies. Come visit me in Hawaii Dammit! Where my door is open for you always and where the weather treats your body super good.
2) And on relationships with a spouse, when it starts to get a tad bit old and stale, even on a weekly basis, its good to take a look at photos of you and your lady from the past to the present having good times. If that doesn't make you walk up to your woman and give her a massage. Then..... uhhh try something else, but it works for me.
I say to myself, "Hay, these are the photos I'm gonna be looking at when I'm regretting that I split up with my wife.
It almost always puts me in the right mind set like damn I love my wife, why am I so selfish. I gotta be the man and be there for her and my kid. I gotta be strong UUUUHHHHH!!!! BREATHE DEEP.
POW BOOM. MR MIAGI STYLES. WORK HARD WITH MOST EFFICIENCY.
Harness Power from within because we need it to keep going.
Breathe Deep and get that oxygen to keep on Climbing to the top so we can say, "Yeah" again and again.
I know I may being vague but...
Good night.
Aloha Oe LOS!
Mayonaisse.
Friday, June 3, 2011
One of the top five things to learn in life
One of the top five things to learn in life is how to have friends.
How to be a good friend or better yet a best friend.
If you can't do this then you haven't lived I'm convinced.
I feel lucky
Maybe it's one, two or three. The more the merrier.
I have a lot to say about this topic, but first I better go hang out with my wife. She's my friend too you know.
Aloha.
How to be a good friend or better yet a best friend.
If you can't do this then you haven't lived I'm convinced.
I feel lucky
Maybe it's one, two or three. The more the merrier.
I have a lot to say about this topic, but first I better go hang out with my wife. She's my friend too you know.
Aloha.
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Good Day and some skate wisdom
Play this and read.
Even though I don't have a full time job yet. Today was good.
Here's why in random order:
Spent the first half of the afternoon applying for jobs.
I found this song on Pandora while cooking dinner with my son.
He stirred the cut potatoes and mixed them up in a pot with the salt and spices.
While I cut and prepped other ingredients.
How to conserve water tip.
Jump in the tub after your baby if you have one.
Or better yet take a bath with your kid before he or she gets too old. Its good times.
If your tub is big enough throw mom in there too.
After applying to jobs
Skated the skate park and the right combo of homeboys were there including Hartsel and Torian and James and.... the sun put the golden light across the park. I always skate better when certain people are around. Hartsel is one of them.
Unlike skating with my good old friend Jeff Pang, I used to always get hurt when I skated with him, but I'll tell a few of those stories another time.
It rained some so we had to skate under the bridge and session two obstacles at one point. Its always fun when this happens cuz everyone can session together. I was bugging out (havin' good times) saying outloud, "If I'm a real skater, I should be able to do a frontside grind" then do it. "If I'm a real skater I should be able to do a frontside board-slide" and do it, etcetera etcetera. Skating the park reminds me of when I first started skating everyday after school at the "tennis courts" with my neighborhood bros. Only I don't skate everyday, but...
Here's what I learned skating today.
If you want to learn a trick, imagine yourself doing it as much as possible-The feeling and actual movement when and where to breathe, the direction of your shoulders, arms, head, feet. Then go for it. Try it twenty times if you have to, one hundred times. As long as each try doesn't involve a skull crack. If this is the case, wear a helmet. Roll around and do tricks you can land in between to have some fun while you're at it.
If you don't land it that day, save it for next time. Because if you're too stubborn and keep trying it until the sun goes down and you're late for dinner, wifey won't be happy. This I didn't do. My deal is I always have to make it to wifey before the sun goes down so we can enjoy it set together. I think if might of taken me a year to learn to ollie. Thank the universe I didn't give up. I may have tried it over a hundreds of times. Some things take hundreds and hundreds of times doing it until grace starts to appear.
Thats it for now.
Aloha.
Even though I don't have a full time job yet. Today was good.
Here's why in random order:
Spent the first half of the afternoon applying for jobs.
I found this song on Pandora while cooking dinner with my son.
He stirred the cut potatoes and mixed them up in a pot with the salt and spices.
While I cut and prepped other ingredients.
How to conserve water tip.
Jump in the tub after your baby if you have one.
Or better yet take a bath with your kid before he or she gets too old. Its good times.
If your tub is big enough throw mom in there too.
After applying to jobs
Skated the skate park and the right combo of homeboys were there including Hartsel and Torian and James and.... the sun put the golden light across the park. I always skate better when certain people are around. Hartsel is one of them.
Unlike skating with my good old friend Jeff Pang, I used to always get hurt when I skated with him, but I'll tell a few of those stories another time.
It rained some so we had to skate under the bridge and session two obstacles at one point. Its always fun when this happens cuz everyone can session together. I was bugging out (havin' good times) saying outloud, "If I'm a real skater, I should be able to do a frontside grind" then do it. "If I'm a real skater I should be able to do a frontside board-slide" and do it, etcetera etcetera. Skating the park reminds me of when I first started skating everyday after school at the "tennis courts" with my neighborhood bros. Only I don't skate everyday, but...
My wife's description of this blog
Blah blah blah blah surfing surfing
Blah blah blah blah surfing surfing
Blah Blah Blah surfing
Surfing Surfing.
Yeah so I'm writing about skateboarding.
Here's what I learned skating today.
If you want to learn a trick, imagine yourself doing it as much as possible-The feeling and actual movement when and where to breathe, the direction of your shoulders, arms, head, feet. Then go for it. Try it twenty times if you have to, one hundred times. As long as each try doesn't involve a skull crack. If this is the case, wear a helmet. Roll around and do tricks you can land in between to have some fun while you're at it.
If you don't land it that day, save it for next time. Because if you're too stubborn and keep trying it until the sun goes down and you're late for dinner, wifey won't be happy. This I didn't do. My deal is I always have to make it to wifey before the sun goes down so we can enjoy it set together. I think if might of taken me a year to learn to ollie. Thank the universe I didn't give up. I may have tried it over a hundreds of times. Some things take hundreds and hundreds of times doing it until grace starts to appear.
Thats it for now.
Aloha.
Monday, May 30, 2011
You know you're an Old School Skater when
You know you're an Old School Skater when your baby's diaper smells like the Brooklyn Banks.
Surf Wisdom: How to fit in a rad surf session on your family day without your wife getting pissed at you.
Every day of life I should be stoked on.
I was lazy and tired the other day and the waves came up then all of a sudden I had all this burst of energy- a weird phenomena I have been noticing lately.
So much goes on in my head and I'm trying to turn it into something worth reading.
Maybe write something about how hard it is to live a creative life... so you can feel not alone, or can feel like, "damn this guy is a pretty cool, but I like my life better."
Or maybe I should write about what a rad day I had so you can either be inspired or wish you were living a life like mine playing into the "the Jones" game... but that's lame.
Maybe you never worry about what the Jones are doing or what they have, if so great for you.
However it is nice to know what the rest of the world is doing sometimes... to inspire yourself or so you don't go parading what a great thing you've done, when someone else in the world has done it ten times better.
My wife wants a big house with a yard. Me too. But I'm not gonna get depressed everyday that I don't have that, or anything for that matter.
Being alive is great foundation for me.
But I suppose having a good and worthy source of income to take care of my child for the next 20 years is in order. This might very well be my midlife crisis. I read somewhere, I think maybe in a book about Mr. Rogers. It said something like, getting to know oneself is a life long journey. What I don't want is having my source of income be a life long journey.
Balancing making art and making money at the same time is the puzzle that I will work on. But what if I don't work it out by the time rent has to be paid, which is in a few days. Let me worry about that. In the mean time....
What do I really want to get off my chest. Oh yeah,
How to fit in a rad surf session on your family day without your wife getting pissed at you.
Do something she likes to do with your child. Something preferably extremely strenuous so it makes both wife and child pass out while you drive to your favorite surf break, which you're friend lives right in front of, and who just happens to be having a rad BBQ with awesome family and friends
The only problem is you have to get that second wind (that magic burst of energy I mentioned earlier) which should be no prob because the waves are overhead and perfect. If the waves aren't any good, better off gaining more family time points for the epic waves soon to come.
I'm sure you get the point by now. But you might be thinking yeah but how can this all happen all together. The gist of the How to is in the beginning.
To repeat in other words, Do some family time first then go surf. The more epic family time, the higher the chances of getting to surf. But don't do this every family day or you'll abuse it.
One father I met today doesn't surf on Family Sundays.This is very impressive and disciplined. Maybe I'll get there someday... (and not that every family does Family Sundays, I however find it works well to keep the family healthy)
I have to record what I actually did today.
I'm stoked I picked an awesome hike to go on first thing in the morning which ended with an amazing view of both the south and east sides of the island, the Kuliouou Ridge Trail, which was up the street from the house we are watching for our friends. It is supposed to be beginner intermediate, but put a twenty something pound baby on your back and it turns strenuous. What is supposed to take 2.5 to 3 hours took us 4.
-Home to shower
-Pick up our friends baby so they could go on a date.
-drive to West Side to Mathias' house for a BBQ. He lives directly in front of one of the best waves on the island. I've caught the biggest and longest waves there. It holds big waves and peels perfect often and long.
-Mathias is rad. Super Kind. His nickname is Scratch. He just had a baby named Kirin. His wife, family and friends are the same- super kind.
-There is a pathway from his house that leads directly to the spot where you paddle out. It happened to be overhead and pretty close to perfect. Other dads either had too much to drink, or weren't gonna be selfish and ruin family day with Dad gone out in the ocean. But thank God I had the ol' Family hike already done in the form of a "Surf Ticket" in my back pocket. I of course spent some time at the party briefly then told Marisa I wanted to paddle out. I didn't have to ask, just run to the car to get the sunscreen for the kids.
Mathias couldn't surf because he was playing host.
He let me use one of his favorite boards which was perfect for the spot.
The surf realization I learned out there today was:
When the waves start getting over head, they can shift around a lot-break over here, then over there.
Sometimes when you're paddling for a wave, there is no time to look back. You are either in the right spot or not. The only way you are going to catch that wave is to paddle hard for it. You're either going to be to far inside and have the wave crash on you. Or you're gonna be in the right spot and catch the wave, or be in the wrong spot and totally miss the wave. 2 out of the 3 you're going to be just fine if not totally stoked. 3 out of 3 you're probably going to be fine as well....
Moral of the story, Paddle hard and go for it because you have nothing to lose.
-Then I paddled in for sunset, a beer and dinner back at Mathias's with his family.
Then drove back home to the south side and waited for our friends to pick up there son Koa at midnight.
Epic Lucky day
-Time for bed.
P.S. Thank You Lesley-Anne Loon the hiker for taking photos of us and emailing them.
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Ala Moana Bowls
I asked this guy Mike Akima, "Did you get shacked yet?"
His response, "What you think? I'm gonna paddle out here and not get shacked.
I think everybody is getting shacked today. Did you get shacked yet."
I replied, "I didn't think so but this guy paddled up to me and said, 'Nice barrel.',
And Mike replies, "Close enough"
Then I paddled over to Rockpiles and caught a good one.
As I paddled back dude says, "Sick Wave you got"
Today was rad at Ala Moana Bowls.
Peeling Head High Waves.
His response, "What you think? I'm gonna paddle out here and not get shacked.
I think everybody is getting shacked today. Did you get shacked yet."
I replied, "I didn't think so but this guy paddled up to me and said, 'Nice barrel.',
And Mike replies, "Close enough"
Then I paddled over to Rockpiles and caught a good one.
As I paddled back dude says, "Sick Wave you got"
Today was rad at Ala Moana Bowls.
Peeling Head High Waves.
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Monday, May 23, 2011
Weekend Revelations
1)Plan your future or someone or something else will.
Stay focused. Breathe Deep. Keep your blood flowing. Sweat.
My goal is to see the world with my family.
2) Life is about being or learning to be a great friend.
3)I don't want to forget this past saturday hanging out in the backyard with my son painting
listening to Jack Johnson.
Side note:
A bonzai tree master told me once (and I tell this to most people), "Everyone must have a passion to guide their soul. if not the soul will drift in the wind."
Stay focused. Breathe Deep. Keep your blood flowing. Sweat.
My goal is to see the world with my family.
2) Life is about being or learning to be a great friend.
3)I don't want to forget this past saturday hanging out in the backyard with my son painting
listening to Jack Johnson.
Side note:
A bonzai tree master told me once (and I tell this to most people), "Everyone must have a passion to guide their soul. if not the soul will drift in the wind."
Friday, May 20, 2011
Thursday, May 19, 2011
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Monday, May 16, 2011
Weekend wrap up
Last night I went out to Chinatown with Ethan and Cole.
We were supposed to check out a show at Next Door "Free the Robots"
Before hand we skate the best Parking Garage I ever skated yet.
It started on the 10th floor and there were two platforms per floor
if I am not mistaken. All I remember was Floor 5, Floor 4.5, Floor 4, etc.
We then skated around to our favorite curbs.
We get to the venue and we didn't feel like paying the $20 cover.
So we went to Liliha Bakery for some pancakes. I got a Loco Moco.
Today, Sunday was rad. Sundays are family day. We had a day at the beach til sunset.
On the way we went to a sale at Surf Garage and we go a tie die shirt, a Surf Line short sleeve button down and board shorts, and the above surfboard... all for $85 bucks. The surfboard was $50 and unused. It is a 6'5" and was unused. I tried it and it works good. It is gonna be my fun board for 15 ft faces (4-5 feet Hawaiian). I always end up buying misfit boards. As opposed to brand new popular brands.
We were supposed to check out a show at Next Door "Free the Robots"
Before hand we skate the best Parking Garage I ever skated yet.
It started on the 10th floor and there were two platforms per floor
if I am not mistaken. All I remember was Floor 5, Floor 4.5, Floor 4, etc.
We then skated around to our favorite curbs.
We get to the venue and we didn't feel like paying the $20 cover.
So we went to Liliha Bakery for some pancakes. I got a Loco Moco.
On the way we went to a sale at Surf Garage and we go a tie die shirt, a Surf Line short sleeve button down and board shorts, and the above surfboard... all for $85 bucks. The surfboard was $50 and unused. It is a 6'5" and was unused. I tried it and it works good. It is gonna be my fun board for 15 ft faces (4-5 feet Hawaiian). I always end up buying misfit boards. As opposed to brand new popular brands.
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