Some titles that reveal what this blog will be about:
Tales of a Honolulu Homeboy
Surf Skate Create
Living Dreams
Surf Life.
OK Let's begin.
Here are two haikus I wrote at Alex's Haiku House in Pupukea, North Shore Oahu.
Drop into the wave.
Tuck into the barrel stoked.
Paddle out for more.
My name is Alex
I love to surf Waimea
I often break guns.
But then the next day, I went to Haleiwa with wife Marisa and baby Hayden to
go for a little swim and surf and walked my foot into a sharp jagged lava rock
sticking out of the sand and fell down in the slowest motion digging the
nose of my surfboard into the sand.
Marisa thought I was being dramatic until she saw my tore bleeding foot.
It hurt and prevented me from surfing the perfect mini waves that I was staring at when I tripped.
Moral of the story:
Be in the moment even when you are looking further ahead,
or else you might trip on what's immediately in front of you
postponing your movement further ahead.
First Post
-Manny Aloha
No comments:
Post a Comment