A surf moment

Johnny dropped into a head high wave, however his home break was in weird form.- abnormally shaped. He rode the funky water blob into the inside section where better form took shape. The lip through over his head fast and he was inside a barrel in an instant. He crouched down low and caught a clear aqua blue view of the guts of the wave, a small 3 foot hole at the end. It was beyond movies and any man-made playground. The wave closed out and took Johnny for a tumble- man and nature horsing around. Johnny was stoked and paddled out for more.

That was me today on my thruster.

-Manny Aloha