I rode my twin fin and surfed with my homeboy Kevin Whitton, aka K Double. He rips. I watched him get shacked. I usually do while paddling back to the line up. I like surfing with him because he cracks me up. I think he witnessed a few of my waves too while paddling back to the line-up It's always good when your homies witness you catching a good wave. Anyways, my second wave, the wave was so spacious and long that I didn't know what to do with myself. I was like, time to rip Manny. Instead of just carve down the line, It was time to slash the lip. So I am riding the above board tomorrow, in hopes of slashing waves a little more. Its a gamble though because it is a little more narrow than the board I was riding today which is a little more slutty.... it catch waves real easy and slides across waves like an oil slick. The above board cuts into the wave and slashes it like a knife. Decisions decisions.
Another side note, this board was given to me by my friend Troy. Days after he gave it to me I rode it into dry reef and put at least 5 deep gashes in it. It sat on my rack for a year until I found time to fix it.
But now it's back in business. I painted it two years ago as a practice run for a commissioned board painting. I basically painted the same thing on a new board. Damn time flies.
Sometimes I think what a lame-o I can be when there are real problems going on around the world like the war and the destruction in Japan.
Maybe it's time to do something more meaningful. I see my job as an artist is to remind people that life is worth living. I feel extremely lucky and privileged.
Also I'm probably going to have to hang this board as one of my art pieces. I'm supposed to hang an art show on Friday and I don't got shit right now. I'm basically gonna strip my walls of all the art in my home and bring it to the gallery. If I'm lucky I'll get to make one new painting.
till tomorrow.
-Manny Aloha
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