Thursday, August 14, 2014
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Tuesday SURF, ART and BBQ
After Tuesday's daily grind
I got a call from Big Braddah Luke with the Surf Report.
"Diamond Head is head high and clean"
| It was 4:00 and he said he would be in the water by 4:30, 4:45. |
I said, "I have to pick up Hayden from school. See you in the water by 5. I'll be on the inside with Hayden." So I hustle and strap the longboard to the roof of the station wagon, and pack charcoal, lighter fluid, grill, and a cooler with some hot dogs, ketchup, mustard, bread and water, and choclate chip cookies into the trunk, for a sunset BBQ after surf. I bolted to pick up Hayden at 4:50.
The car was on Empty and Hayden insisted we get gas so we don't have to tow the car. I said your right. After getting gas, we park, put our board shorts on, walk down the east cliff (Hayden lead the way all by himself) and we make it to the bottom and he tells me he has to pooh. So we make it to the bottom and walk up a steep crevice 25 yards up so Hayden can do the do behind a rock. I wash his but in the ocean, put his life vest on and we paddled out by 5:30 with plenty of sun still left.
We paddle to the small inside section and catch our first wave body board style. We see Uncle Luke out in the normal Cliffs line up. Head high sets are coming in clean. We catch another wave, then another which we stand up on. That was our first time we ever stood up on a wave together. Then I ask Hayden if he wants to go paddle out to Uncle Luke, and he says "Let's do it! I'm not afraid."
Hayden was stoked. We paddle to the far left of Cliffs and I say, " let's watch this set come in, it's always good to know where the waves are breaking and who's on it. The line up is kind of packed and zoo like. The set subsides and we paddle to Luke and give hi fives with one eye to the horizon for unexpected sets. I knew if an outside set would come, we'd have to catch it. Paddling around it was not an option with the crowd.
Luke notes a outside set coming. I look inside and give the "telepathic nod and eye that my son and I are coming through so please clear the way" and the crowd parted. We let the first one pass. The next coming was unavoidable so I say heads up everybody! Hayden we're on this. Get ready. I check the wave and paddle in to make sure we catch the wave after it breaks behind us. The foam was plenty big enough. And dropping in on it would have been way too risky. We catch the wave and make the foam impact and are flying down the wave on our bellies. I move way back on the board as to not nose dive the board. Half way through the ride, it smoothens out, and I say Hay lets get up. He says OK and we both get up and ride together for the first time on a legit wave at Diamond Head.
It seemed like forever. We rode the wave over 60 yards and almost all the way to shore. It was the best wave of the set, and the first time I ever took Hayden out to the line up at Diamond Head. One of the most memorable waves of my life today. I'm so proud.
Then we showered up, walked up to the car, took our time getting dressed to some KTUH tunes (hatch back open enjoying the view of the waves from cliffs edge), drove to Lukes to tell him we were BBQin' at Kaimana (He lives a few hundred yards from the break).
We rendevous at the Kaimana Beach Park, fire up the grill while Hayden draws pictures. Uncle Luke came with a six pack of beers. Attached are Hayden's drawing and words we wrote together. We left the beach park at 9:20. Possibly the best Tuesday of my life.
HAYDEN'S DRAWING S FROM AFTER HE CAUGHT HIS FIRST EPIC WAVE AND STOOD UP WITH DAD.
(I took the honor of coloring them in.)
Signing off,
Manny Aloha
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| Star Man with Wave Eyes (Possible Self Portrait) |
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| Wave |
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| Words from Hayden written by me DAD! How do you write, "MEET LUKE. HE'S THE BEST. HE LOVES TO SKATE. HE CAN JUMP HIGH! HE ALSO LOVES TO SURF! ME AND MANNY WITH LUKE! Dad! write , "HAYDEN'S A NUT CASE!" |
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