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Monday, October 6, 2014


Hayden putting sunscreen on all by himself for the first time,
on the way to the beach to paddle out to his home surf break 
together with Mom and Dad also for the first time.
Note the radical spandex board shorts made by Marisa Mom. 

Aloha family, friends, surf and life lovers.
Today was a special day. There were radical waves on the North shore, but we chose to stay on the South shore where the waves were smaller so we could all paddle out as a family.

For the first time in our life, Marisa, Hayden, and I  surfed together - everyone on their own surfboard. It was one of my dreams achieved- to surf with my wife and son. In the nine years we've been on the island, my wife Marisa has never paddled out to our home break (it being a little advanced). Hayden hadn't paddle out until now because he was a little to young and not able to swim. But now being five years old and able to swim short distances, I felt he was ready.

Our home break is the wave that breaks in front of the beach park where Marisa and I got married. So for all of us to paddle out together for the first time was a milestone. 

We made it about 100 yards out to the area where your ride normally ends if you were to drop in from the point. Hayden was generally stoked the whole way out, expressing only a little fear briefly. Marisa pointed out the awesome view of Diamond Head.

There was still a little south swell coming in and the waves were bigger than I expected so I pushed Hayden into the first wave that came our way and he took off. He appeared 25 yards towards shore with a big scream and smile on his face. Marisa and I caught the next wave chasing him. Having surfed there easily over a hundred times, I knew exactly how the waves break, and where not to paddle allowing us to have the safest experience possible.

Marisa was stoked too. She said she wants to surf together every Sunday Morning. I pray that we can make this happen for as they say out here, "A family that surfs together, stays together".

I have no photos of this memorable moment except for this sequence of Hayden putting sunscreen on all by himself on the ride to the beach. This is pretty much another milestone on the same day.

This ends my Family Sunday Surf Update.

Thursday, August 14, 2014

Sidewalk Chalk Art Installation

came home from work to find that my son did an art project on our apartment complex with the sidewalk chalk. I imagine the little dude focusing.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Tuesday SURF, ART and BBQ

After Tuesday's daily grind
I got a call from Big Braddah Luke with the Surf Report.
"Diamond Head is head high and clean"

It was 4:00 and he said he would be in the water by 4:30, 4:45.
I said, "I have to pick up Hayden from school. See you in the water by 5. I'll be on the inside with Hayden." So I hustle and strap the longboard to the roof of the station wagon, and pack charcoal, lighter fluid, grill, and a cooler with some hot dogs, ketchup, mustard, bread and water, and choclate chip cookies into the trunk, for a sunset BBQ after surf. I bolted to pick up Hayden at 4:50. 

The car was on Empty and Hayden insisted we get gas so we don't have to tow the car. I said your right. After getting gas, we park, put our board shorts on, walk down the east cliff (Hayden lead the way all by himself) and we make it to the bottom and he tells me he has to pooh. So we make it to the bottom and walk up a steep crevice 25 yards up so Hayden can do the do behind a rock. I wash his but in the ocean, put his life vest on and we paddled out by 5:30 with plenty of sun still left. 
We paddle to the small inside section and catch our first wave body board style. We see Uncle Luke out in the normal Cliffs line up. Head high sets are coming in clean. We catch another wave, then another which we stand up on. That was our first time we ever stood up on a wave together. Then I ask Hayden if he wants to go paddle out to Uncle Luke, and he says "Let's do it! I'm not afraid." 

Hayden was stoked. We paddle to the far left of Cliffs and I say, " let's watch this set come in, it's always good to know where the waves are breaking and who's on it. The line up is kind of packed and zoo like. The set subsides and we paddle to Luke and give hi fives with one eye to the horizon for unexpected sets.  I knew if an outside set would come, we'd have to catch it. Paddling around it was not an option with the crowd. 

Luke notes a outside set coming. I look inside and give the "telepathic nod and eye that my son and I are coming through so please clear the way" and the crowd parted. We let the first one pass. The next coming was unavoidable so I say heads up everybody! Hayden we're on this. Get ready. I check the wave and paddle in to make sure we catch the wave after it breaks behind us. The foam was plenty big enough. And dropping in on it would have been way too risky. We catch the wave and make the foam impact and are flying down the wave on our bellies. I move way back on the board as to not nose dive the board. Half way through the ride, it smoothens out, and I say Hay lets get up. He says OK and we both get up and ride together for the first time on a legit wave at Diamond Head.
 It seemed like forever. We rode the wave over 60 yards and almost all the way to shore. It was the best wave of the set, and the first time I ever took Hayden out to the line up at Diamond Head. One of the most memorable waves of my life today. I'm so proud. 

Then we showered up, walked up to the car, took our time getting dressed to some KTUH tunes (hatch back open enjoying the view of the waves from cliffs edge), drove to Lukes to tell him we were BBQin' at Kaimana (He lives a few hundred yards from the break).

We rendevous at the Kaimana Beach Park, fire up the grill while Hayden draws pictures. Uncle Luke came with a six pack of beers. Attached are Hayden's drawing and words we wrote together. We left the beach park at 9:20. Possibly the best Tuesday of my life. 
(I took the honor of coloring them in.)
Signing off, 
Manny Aloha
Star Man with Wave Eyes
(Possible Self Portrait)

Words from Hayden written by me
DAD! How do you write,
Dad! write , "HAYDEN'S A NUT CASE!"

Monday, January 13, 2014

On Hats and skateboarding

Skateboarding without a mesh trucker cap is like doing a kabuki theater performance without a mask.
I was at the skate park today and didn't have any of my usual attire. My skating suffered.

Kind of like playing football without a helmet.

Saturday, November 30, 2013


A few weeks ago my favorite surfer of all time passed.
Today I postponed a camping trip to paddle out with over a hundred of his friends and family.
I paddled out on my twin fin and my wife on the long board with our son.
It was a beautiful experience.
In the process we got to meet a lot of kind people, like Kiki, Christian Hosoi's cousin, and Mark Liddell. It was my first funeral/paddle out.
If I die, I want my ashes to go dumped at my home break Suicides right by Graveyards on the South Shore of  Oahu, and for all my friends and family barbecue and surf all day. Hopefully there'll be waves. It is also my goal to give back to the community with my art. My representations of the how the ocean makes me feel.
So glad I went.
Thank you for showing so many people the way on how to get so stoked, including myself.

Friday, November 15, 2013

My First Big Wave Experience.

I'm not sure if I'm exaggerating, but today I paddled out to waves the size of two story houses, apparently smaller than yesterday when we lost a brother. RIP.

It was 10-12 ft Hawaiian scale waves, or 20-25 ft faces. Thanks to my friend Alex for lending me the appropriate gear. 8'6" (probably a little under gunned, it didn't look as big from shore),
and a floatation vest. I am yet to ask him what size he claims it was. For all I know I'm exaggerating.
All I know they were the largest waves I've ever paddled out to.

I had the opportunity to make a couple, but this one uncle kept taking my thunder, and blowing it. I gladly gave them up. I believed I could make it, and when the wave came to me that I thought I would catch, I'd say to myself "I"m gonna get this BITCH" But maybe I should of approached it like, "May I have the Honor?"- Been a little more cordial to the beast.

I almost scraped into an elegant mean one, one of the larger set waves.  Maybe it was better  that I didn't make it. I was at the top of the lip and thought I was in. Alex gave me a tip that I didn't follow, which was to keep paddling down the face of the wave before you drop in. I was at the top of the lip.  I could of sworn I was in. The lip grazed my whole body and board, like a tap to a baby's bottom or a mild slap on the cheek. Then I thought for sure I was going over the falls and was ready for the pounding of my life, but somehow I miraculously slipped out the back.

I was happy enough to see what I saw-

It was like some Danny Way Mega Ramp shit but a little scarier because waves move and march towards you, and are in a constant mega morphing form, that you have to decipher and coordinate with.  And if you wipe out hard you can go under where its difficult to find you. The ambulance can't just roll up and scrape you up off the floor. They'd have to risk their own life to find you.

My friend Alex was owning it out there. Handling Solid. He is an ex rugby player and built for taking hard hits. He reminds me of my brother Bob. Dudes with BIG BALLS. I was stoked to see him shine out there. Thanks bro for being my guide.

Easily larger than a one story house. and more like the size of a row of three two story houses rolling your way and looking larger in the distance, but maybe I'm exaggerating. Alex, if your out there,
What do you think?

The site is burnt in my memory- a beautiful nightmare,  probably the most sublime experience I've had yetf to date.

I'm not gonna lie, I didn't make it into one of the large ones. I was thankful to scrape into one about half the size.

I may not ever surf that size ever again. I don't have the total desire. Although it was thrill, I have more fun surfing 4-6 ft Hawaiian, or 10-15ft faces and smaller- Good clean fun.
Better yet, my favorite size is 3-4 ft Hawaiian.

-Manny Aloha signing off.