Aloha All,
Its been way too long since I've written in this blog.
I need to practice writing so I'll just go for it.
Friday after work (I'll try to save you the details of my day job)
I came home around 4:30pm desperate to surf.
I called my friend to get the surf report of the waves in front of his house.
He said it was on.
My son Hayden joined me.
The spot we would go to has a few if not a lot of gnarly reef heads in certain areas, so I drew him a diagram of the reef of where not to go.
When we got there, we paddled out to find our friends in the water.
The waves were a little unruly and all over the place, with a little wind factor.
Head High waves would jack up from little mounds. It was hard to figure out where you were in the ocean since there were waves all over the place, difficult to see which one to ride then you'd take off on a wave only to find yourself headed strait for the reef patch.
A set was approaching from the distance. In no time it was 20 ft away. Hayden says "Oh no dad! What do I do? and I said, I don't know" I paddled away from him so we wouldn't crash into each other. Later he said the wave made him do a back flip underwater and held him down longer than usual. He said at first he kept trying to swim up, but then he gave up because he didn't want to waste his energy, and I said good, that's a good thing to experience- exactly the right thing to do in that situation.
He took off on the next wave and rode it well safely.
He paddled back out, and another wave came which we both took off on.
He rode it on his knees and was headed directly towards the reef patch with no escape.
Thankfully, he rode high on the wave which took him over the reef.
All my friends were scared for him.
I was afraid too.
He rode straight over it and was deposited in the middle of reef heads.
He somehow paddled out of the danger zone unharmed.
We went home. Ate dinner and Crashed.
Today is Saturday and Hayden asked if he could surf Queens with his friends.
So that's what we did. We ate breakfast then picked up Reed and headed to Waikiki.
His friend Mars would meet us in the water.
With all the Covid-19 Park Closures, we parked over by Publics and paddled to Queens from Walls. We went around the buoys and avoided the boogie boarders.
There was Reed, Hayden, Marisa, Cruz and Myself.
We all rode long boards and Cruz rode with me with his floats on my Yellow board.
It was a gorgeous sunny day, and a beautiful 300 yard paddle in clear light blue water.
I was happy that my wife Marisa joined us.
Hayden caught some long ones from outside, all the way into Baby Queens. Possilby the longest wave I've ever seen him ride. He pushed his mom into a wave and made her happy.
I'm a proud dad.
I caught some fun ones too.
Johnny the Ripper was out, Connie and his blond girlfriend ( I forget her name), Lala and Poey. They were ripping as usual - everyone riding the nose and catching epic rights.
Cade, James from publics and his daughters and a bunch of others we knew were out.
Afterwards, I rallied up the boys to paddle back to Walls.
Hayden was getting hungry for Mack and Cheese.
We showered up and found Marisa by the minivan with Kate, Reeds Mom.
The boys walked the dog for a 20 minutes then busted out the skateboards and skated on the sidewalk for another 30 min.
We left and wend to the grocery store to pick up Pasta shells for Mac and Cheese and some Ice Cream. When we got back to the house, the kids did arts and crafts while Marisa and I prepared some Pepperoni frozen pizza, mac and cheese, and green beans and mushrooms.
Reeds parents came by to pick him up and we sat for about an hour drinking a couple of beers and a bottle of white wine, while the kids skated around the neighborhood.
Mars, Reed, Cade and Hayden. Then they left. Mars stuck around a little longer and skated in front of the house until his mom came.
But now my son has played Fortnight until 11:30pm and is having a temper tantrum.
So. I've decided to take it away indefinitely.
Being a dad is one of the toughest things to do for me.
I'm hoping he just stayed up too late and was totally exhausted.
It's 11:30 pm.
Time for me to crash too..
