Mean Dream Awakening

Ladies and Gentlemen and Low Lifes,

I had a mean dream. It's 3:30 am and it spawned me to wake up and run straight to my computer and write, because it is the fastest and most direct way to capture what is going on in my head- faster than drawing or painting it, or making a movie for that matter.

I had a dream that I was walking with some friends in the rain to a hybrid of Yankee and Mets stadium for a concert in the rain (concerts never or hardly ever happen there). It was to be an insane event with all my favorite friends. peers and role models in New York City attending. As I pulled up to the event I began seeing Vandal Squad and random police officers handcuffing dudes amongst the crowds around the food fender booths. They were then wrapped up in a cloudy white heavy duty 10ml plastic tarp, like a burrito with their heads sticking out to allow for breathing. Anyone captured would be stacked up in groups of 3 or 4 near the road, ready to be thrown into an incinerator. 

In the wrapped up stacks I immediately began recognizing friends I knew. The first one was Bob Puloeo and  two other skaters from Brooklyn.  

As I scan the stacks of dudes wrapped up. I notice another friend.  Its my friend Charlie Buttelry, creator of Nimbus Skates. I ask one of the my skater friends wrapped up next to Bob Puleo and ask, "What's up Bro? What's going on here?"

Skater - "They got us all! And they're gettin' ready to burn us." "They got Bob!" 

They got UFO too! Look what they did to him!" as he pointed to one of the wraps. 

Inside the plastic wrap was a pureed white like sauce spread between a hero- life size piece of french bread. UFO was my longest lasting friend in my life." I met him when I was 5 years old. At first I thought I could save some of my friends, but when I saw UFO pureed into a sauce, there was nothing I could do to bring him back! It spawned me to wake up and express myself without holding back - to express myself for my friends. I'm glad it was just a dream.

FIRST FAMILY SUNDAY SURF

Hayden putting sunscreen on all by himself for the first time,

on the way to the beach to paddle out to his home surf break 

together with Mom and Dad also for the first time.

Note the radical spandex board shorts made by Marisa Mom. 

Aloha family, friends, surf and life lovers.

Today was a special day. There were radical waves on the North shore, but we chose to stay on the South shore where the waves were smaller so we could all paddle out as a family.

For the first time in our life, Marisa, Hayden, and I  surfed together - everyone on their own surfboard. It was one of my dreams achieved- to surf with my wife and son. In the nine years we've been on the island, my wife Marisa has never paddled out to our home break (it being a little advanced). Hayden hadn't paddle out until now because he was a little to young and not able to swim. But now being five years old and able to swim short distances, I felt he was ready.

Our home break is the wave that breaks in front of the beach park where Marisa and I got married. So for all of us to paddle out together for the first time was a milestone. 

We made it about 100 yards out to the area where your ride normally ends if you were to drop in from the point. Hayden was generally stoked the whole way out, expressing only a little fear briefly. Marisa pointed out the awesome view of Diamond Head.

There was still a little south swell coming in and the waves were bigger than I expected so I pushed Hayden into the first wave that came our way and he took off. He appeared 25 yards towards shore with a big scream and smile on his face. Marisa and I caught the next wave chasing him. Having surfed there easily over a hundred times, I knew exactly how the waves break, and where not to paddle allowing us to have the safest experience possible.

Marisa was stoked too. She said she wants to surf together every Sunday Morning. I pray that we can make this happen for as they say out here, "A family that surfs together, stays together".

I have no photos of this memorable moment except for this sequence of Hayden putting sunscreen on all by himself on the ride to the beach. This is pretty much another milestone on the same day.

This ends my Family Sunday Surf Update.