Aloha friends and family,
Last month was practically non-stop waves on the south shore of Oahu.
I surfed so much I got my first ear infection that I am still recovering from.
October is apparently the month with the highest count of shark attacks.
So maybe staying out of the water to heal my ear is a blessing.
On Oahu alone there was 2 shark attacks in October, one at "Left Overs", the other at Lani Kai.
Left Overs is one of my favorite spots. I've caught waves there 5 times the length of my old home break of Rockaway Queens, going probably 3 times as fast on waves twice the average size.
I'm not sure if I'll surf Left Overs this winter. If you're already surfing it, you're one brave human.
What else... My last day of surf was two Saturdays ago at my home break. It was glassy with head high perfect peeling conditions. Maneuvers seemed effortless- floaters, lip cracks, drop ins with ease.
I surfed it with my friend Chrisitian. One of his sons is in kindergarten and goes to the same school as my son.
Its funny how some days you can be "on it" surfing like a champion, while other times surf like a donkey. It's rare, but three weeks ago I surfed like true donkey. I went over the falls twice sitting on my board falling face first, fumbled on drop ins, dropped in between a girl on a longboard in front of me and a dude behind me, and dropped in on a dad of a kid who is in the same kindergarten class as my kid. I got one good wave of redemption, but eventually I realized I was the super kook that day and paddled myself in before I caused any damage to a beautiful session.
Thats all to report for now.
Working on a mural for the kindergarten walls where my son goes to school.
I'll keep you posted.
Singing off.
-Manny
