A True Surf Story

Johnny had a lot of sun. His skin felt crispy, but he felt good.
He just scored an epic dawn patrol surf session. His favorite song played
in his earphones and he took a moment to space out and remember the
most magic moments of his sesh. Johnny lived in paradise so although
magic moments were frequent, he still appreciated every one.
When magic moments linked and continued consecutively he shed tears of joy when no one was looking. He missed his old friends and family dearly. You see when the genie came out of the magic lamp, one of the conditions of receiving the wish of living in paradise, was abandoning close proximity of his great friends and family. He was paying the price, and getting paid in waves and new friends at the same time.

But back to the Surf.
Johnny paddled out to his favorite break at 6am. There were only two kayakers out. The 3 of them shared waves. Johnny in his spaced out moment said to himself, Damn! The waves just kept Crankin'! Johnny could barely keep up. He remembered one set coming in the horizon. An unknown number of waves lining up. The first one looked good, but the one behind it looked better as usual, so he let it pass. He was right, the second one was bigger and cleaner. The third one behind it looked even bigger and better, but he played it safe and gambled on the second. He paddled to the horizon with his eye focused on his wave, then quickly turned around. The lip broke on his back and but he managed to stay on and was given and extra push down the wave. He was lucky to have "the glue foot" this morning. He bottom turned and dug his rail deep dragging his back hand across the water as he looked at the wave's beautiful face. Up toward the lip he carved then scurried with a tic tac. As he reached the front of the wave with speed, he cashed all his chips in for a hard cut back to bring himself back to the pocket. As he turned he couldn't believe his board. He could feel his fin slicing the cleanest line. It drew a mean fast golden arch sending him back to the hot curl, smacking the white water soup, which sent him right back into the wave for more. Holy shit! he said to himself, astonished of his newfound precision abilities. He Tic tacked across the face to a healthy bottom turn. Ahhh Yeah! he said to himself.  The lip was about to close out, but before it could come down, Johnny slid up to smack the lip and ride the top for an exhilarating floater to acid drop boom, instantly realizing those were the best lines he has made in his life to date.

Just as he thought times were getting tough, life was getting better and better.
He kept his mouth shut as best he could as to not ruin his luck.
He came home to tell his wife, but besides being difficult to explain, he knew she was really pretending to care.

Johnny snapped back into reality and realized it was time to get to work- "time to make the donuts."

Til next time.
My alter ego: Johnny Surf.
Brought to you by
Manny Aloha