Mangoes, Waves and Quality Peoples

Dear friends and family. I've poured a glass of wine at 1am to sit and write some words off the top of my head.

Days have been rad and lovely. Summer in the Northern Hemisphere brings out good feelings- fertility. Summer in Hawaii brings choke mangoes and choke waves on the Southern Shores. In Hawaii, if you didn't guess, choke means a lot. I have been blessed to have neighbors that share their mangoes.  No one family could eat all the mangoes off a bountiful tree. It would make them sick. 

One average size mango tree can supply many mouths with the delicious fruit and if you have a tree and don't share, then that means, a lot of wasted mangoes.

I live on the South Shore. My favorite thing to do these days is surf, and my favorite fruit in the whole world is the mango. So life is good.

But what is more important to most? Making a dollar bill and having high quality things. I do love riding my aunts convertable BMW on Sunset Blvd, but I do also love going for a bike ride with my homeboy Danny and a fruit picker, hunting for mangoes. Or waking up at the crack of dawn to surf a board I made from a broken longboard I found in the trash. 

What I love even more is surfing my home break with a big crowd of people and knowing exactly where to sit in the ocean for the wave to come right to me, and not to them. Knowing what exact board to ride that will best suit the wave condition, and thus provide me with the most fun and intimate  play with my favorite wave. 

I love surfing without my leash and becoming one with my board on a sunny day with glassy crystal clear water. 

I love putting the ocean water in my mouth and squirting it out.

While sitting in a crowd of surfers, I love shooting my board out to the horizon toward the incoming set and swimming under water to my board to emerge and mount my board just in time to catch the wave that comes right to me. Drop in and fly down the line carving with the attitude of Johnny Depp in the Hunter S. Thompson movie Fear and Loathing, Saying "Awhhh YEAH". Then sitting inside waiting for my homey Johnny E. to catch his last wave so we can paddle in and discuss where we want to get a cup of coffee and talk about art and design.

Its 2am and I'm fading. Time to catch some Zs.

-Manny Aloha Signing off.