I'm not sure if I'm exaggerating, but today I paddled out to waves the size of two story houses, apparently smaller than yesterday when we lost a brother. RIP.
It was 10-12 ft Hawaiian scale waves, or 20-25 ft faces. Thanks to my friend Alex for lending me the appropriate gear. 8'6" (probably a little under gunned, it didn't look as big from shore),
and a floatation vest. I am yet to ask him what size he claims it was. For all I know I'm exaggerating.
All I know they were the largest waves I've ever paddled out to.
I had the opportunity to make a couple, but this one uncle kept taking my thunder, and blowing it. I gladly gave them up. I believed I could make it, and when the wave came to me that I thought I would catch, I'd say to myself "I"m gonna get this BITCH" But maybe I should of approached it like, "May I have the Honor?"- Been a little more cordial to the beast.
I almost scraped into an elegant mean one, one of the larger set waves. Maybe it was better that I didn't make it. I was at the top of the lip and thought I was in. Alex gave me a tip that I didn't follow, which was to keep paddling down the face of the wave before you drop in. I was at the top of the lip. I could of sworn I was in. The lip grazed my whole body and board, like a tap to a baby's bottom or a mild slap on the cheek. Then I thought for sure I was going over the falls and was ready for the pounding of my life, but somehow I miraculously slipped out the back.
I was happy enough to see what I saw-
Some BIG ASS MOTHER F$%#IN' WAVES.
It was like some Danny Way Mega Ramp shit but a little scarier because waves move and march towards you, and are in a constant mega morphing form, that you have to decipher and coordinate with. And if you wipe out hard you can go under where its difficult to find you. The ambulance can't just roll up and scrape you up off the floor. They'd have to risk their own life to find you.
My friend Alex was owning it out there. Handling Solid. He is an ex rugby player and built for taking hard hits. He reminds me of my brother Bob. Dudes with BIG BALLS. I was stoked to see him shine out there. Thanks bro for being my guide.
Easily larger than a one story house. and more like the size of a row of three two story houses rolling your way and looking larger in the distance, but maybe I'm exaggerating. Alex, if your out there,
What do you think?
The site is burnt in my memory- a beautiful nightmare, probably the most sublime experience I've had yetf to date.
I'm not gonna lie, I didn't make it into one of the large ones. I was thankful to scrape into one about half the size.
I may not ever surf that size ever again. I don't have the total desire. Although it was thrill, I have more fun surfing 4-6 ft Hawaiian, or 10-15ft faces and smaller- Good clean fun.
Better yet, my favorite size is 3-4 ft Hawaiian.
-Manny Aloha signing off.
