Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Late Night Ding Repair and My first Barrel.
11:36 pm and doing Ding Repair
Hoping to get a quick surf before work.
but probably will be wiped out from lack of sleep.
Remembering how I used to go to bars every night when I lived in NYC
and then go to work gives me hope that I can do some late night
ding repair and still wake up surf and make it to work.
I want to paint too, and do some paperwork for a job I'm working on.
But Can't do it all. Probably got my priorities in the wrong order.
I remember doing late night ding repair and waking up at 4am in
Brooklyn to do a Dawn Patrol at Rockaway on a Saturday Morning
and people would be just getting home from the bars and clubs.
Took a Subway with my 9'0" and to a Shuttle Bus from hell.
Two wasted african american guys laughing at me because I had a
skateboard and 9 foot surfboard on a packed bus.
Repeating, "How you gonna skate and surf at the same time?" I was waiting for them
to make a move. I didn't say a word. People were staring.
But heck I was the second one out at Rockaway that day with 8-10 foot faces and I got my first barrel
it was so worth it. It was still dark out. And there were bunches of people on the board walk checking out the waves.
I paddled out after looking at it for 1 minute. I had surfed there for the past two years and hardly missed a swell. It took me like one minute to paddle to the jetty point with the low tide. I dropped in on the first overhead wave. I was a stoked rookie. I looked up and saw the lip about to come down on me so I bottom turned back up to get closer to the top and the lip went right over my head and I was in a dark brown tube. The wave got silent and made a sound similar to a stomach growl and I came sliding out so stoked and pulled out.
The next set of waves I ate shit.
In fact I ate shit for the rest of my session until I was done.
and then went back to Brooklyn to get ready for a skate contest.
It was still worth it. I was still stoked even though I got my ass handed to me.
On the way home, some dude on the subway asked me for my number and
gave me his card. He said he was writing a book on people and there relationship to the water,
titled, New York Waters: Profiles from the Edge. It came out like 3 years later. I am the surfer in it.
I kept telling him that he should write about my friends, I called people but no one responded.
And he insisted he write about me so it ended up happening- a melodramatic after taste upon reading it.
Got a good full page spread photo and a few pages of words. Maybe I'll post it sometime.
I know some people have a problem with nostalgia.
I better get back to my ding repair.
I'm sure the resin is past ready.
Qcell resin was just right.
Sanded, then patched with cloth
Time for bed.
Keep you posted.
Posted by Manny Aloha at 1:54 AM