The Past Three Surf Sessions

Session 1

 Tuesday Morning 6:30 am

I made the Dawn Patrol Session after staying up until 1 am fixing my favorite board.

Forgot my leash and didn't lose my board. I surfed well and was riding fast with a glue foot and did hard cutbacks grabbing rail. Was super stoked.

Session 2

Tuesday Evening 6pm

After having such a good surf surf in the morning then going to work, I got greedy and even though my wife wanted me to come home, I insisted on going back for another quick session. The waves were still looking good. It was packed. Everyone in the water after work was hungry and greedy like myself to catch waves after a hard days work. It was a  ZOO. Two people per wave. I caught a few waves and didn't lose my board.

Went home and talked to wife about GRABBING RAIL in Surf Session 1. 

She was kind enough to listen.

Session 3

Wednesday 5:30pm to 6:45pm, No Leash again.

Surfed with my friend Josh after working with him for the first time. It was good to work with someone who was just as a perfectionist as me if not more.

We paddle out to Diamond Head again. Before paddling out, Josh tells me that he likes to have his observation of waves be greater than his desire for waves because when you desire too hard, you're not thinking straight and start paddling around chasing waves. I like his surf wisdom. 

The big sets were overhead.

I see a big wave in the distance and start paddling to the horizon to catch it.

As it approached I soon realized I was too far inside. I looked up at the lip went to duck the wave, but it came down on my head and ripped my board violently out of my hands, and took me for a hard underwater tumble. I rise up with no board to be seen. My friend Josh says look in the channel! I swim in and take a few more waves on the head and begin to feel what it might feel like to drown, but keep swimming, and keeping my cool. I swim all the way to shore looking for my board but cant' find it. I run up halfway up Diamond Head Cliff walkway and stand up on the railing scanning the ocean's surface for my board. I back down to the beach to see if it washed up. I start to feel desperation and mild depression.  I run back further up the cliff and scan the ocean again and soon see a friend  who tells me there was a board down on the beach.  I run back down and see a guy with my board. The sun has already set but I  quickly paddle back out for another wave, thinking to myself that I'm probably stupid! I see Josh, who tells me he was just about to paddle in. I see another big wave in the distance that wants to land on my head again, for once I get a little nervous of losing my board, but stay cool. I paddle to the peak before it breaks, and turn around, as it is right about to break on me, I paddle hard, and drop in. It was a radical wave with a steep 10 ft drop and just kept on going and walling up. Instead of being cool guy by trying to shred the wave, I stayed cool and enjoyed the ride and then rode it almost all the way to shore quitting while I was ahead.

Then waited for Josh to paddle in and meet me at the car  where I remembered we had two tall cans of beer waiting for us.
Drank tall cans under the crescent moon.

Moral of the Sessions.

Don't be greedy for waves.

Time to wear a leash for a while.

Remember Josh's Surf Wisdom