FEBRUARY THOUGHTS

Some thoughts and images of February.

The woman I love. Marisa- means "of the sea" how ironic.

After she got out of the water from boogie boarding.

My day work Before 

After

As my Homey Scrappers says, "Adding retarder sauce" to my day.

 Me with my Chinaman hat in front of the one and only Chinaman's Hat Island.

Makaha. This was Valentines Day Morning before work. A one hour drive from home.

Bad Dad came days late with a Valentine present.

Son Haydoggy Dog with his bulldozer. He loves trucks. He doesn't listen to me much right now, but lately has been responding when I call him Mr. Dude. Before bed he kisses me good night, says "I love you" then follows with "Now go away Papa".

Today was Sunday Family day. And I had a great day surfing with my friend Aarron to celebrate his birthday.  Another father I know doesn't surf on family days. I haven't conquered that yet.

Marisa didn't come down too hard on me for surfing two sessions (basically all day) with Aaron at my favorite North Shore  Break. Solid overhead waves all day. I finessed a handful of waves and was proud of myself for breathing and keeping cool on the rides bottom turning low dragging my hand along the 12 foot faces. I paid for it on a handful of waves too though. A couple of guys said was that you who got swallowed in the barrel on that set wave and tumbled all nuts? It was me but thankfully didn't hurt. 

I had some of the best rides of my life today (my wife says I say that every time I surf), but I definitely dropped in on few with three left feet aka Blowing it on Beautiful Waves.

I told my wife before I paddled out that all she had to say when I came in was "I saw you catch a wave and you looked so smooth! Just like Gerry Lopez" and She did and I believed her. It made me feel so good even though I know she doesn't know who Gerry Lopez is or what he surfs like.

My biggest regret today was not taking the time to build a sand castle with my boy. Or spend time with my wife looking for shells. But  by writing this down, I plan on making a conscious effort to make more quality time with them.

My biggest dilemma these days is prioritizing, managing my self employment and developing whatever business I want to pursue, deciding on which business that is, family time, surfing, skateboarding, making art. Writing helps. If I can somehow combine them all to work for me... Hmmmm.

Aloha Family and Friends.

Z catching time.