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Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Biggest Stresses of Living in Hawaii


Do I have ripe apple bananas in the house for my dawn patrol breakfast and some left over for wife and kid.
Do I have coffee for after tomorrow morning's dawn patrol.
Do I have surf wax for tomorrow morning dawn partrol. If so, do I know where it is.
Where to surf in the morning. What board I'm gonna ride.
How to learn more about how people know when there will be waves a week in advance.
How can I make the dopest abstract painting of waves.
Will I ever become the surf poet I dream to be.
Making sure I don't surf too hard this evening so I can surf tomorrow morning when the swell will be peaking.
Which board I should ride tomorrow morning. 
Should I ride my Trusty Twin Fin (Wave Whore)
or try the 6'10" gun previously owned by my friend who surfs big pipe and moved to Kauai.
Looking at all my boards and realizing they are all slowly turning into "Beater Boards" and
How am I going to manage to buy the board I really want that runs about $650-$700
Making sure that I don't surf too hard tomorrow morning so I don't fade during my 12 noon Sales meeting.

How to be self disciplined enough to share waves and be ultimately Zen Surf Master.
How to not to be a surf addict and make time for family so I can be a good husband and father.
How to be cool when surrounded by wave hogs who are not sharing waves.

How to be a surf wizard. (The dude who always finds another section to surf that no one else is surfing and is having the most fun and never says a single word.)

Remembering that I really don't have any serious stresses and not to add on any unnecessary stresses to make me feel like I'm being more accomplished in life.

Remembering to balance out working on art as much if not more than I surf.
Remembering to find time to visit and stay in touch with my homeys and family.

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