But its cool because at least I have a big Thermos filled with hot coffee.
Better than that I just surfed my favorite break by myself.
It was super windy. Rad waves disguised as junk.
But I know my break well, and I know that it can withstand winds
and still hold. And I also never forget the time I surfed Rockaway,
just my friend Colin and I, we had it all too ourselves because the
winds were so gusty it scared all the dawn patrollers away.
We waited two hours, until the wind died. The waves still looked
junky but through the chaos were plenty of rideable morphing but
pealing waves.
This day was similar. Rad waves disguised as junk.
So I get there and there's two guys talkin' and starin' at the spot.
One has a long board. The other a boogie board.
I could hardly say hi because I had limited time before I had to
go to work. The day before there were over head waves, so I knew
there had to be some action.
I get out and there is no one out. Very seldom does this happen.
No one out when I paddle out. No one out when I paddle in.
More importantly than all this, are the magic moments I was yet
to harvest.
Waves were all over the place, disguising the top of the line up.
The usual coordinates didn't seem to line you up to the magic pocket.
So I said to myself, "Sometimes you gotta fuck all coordinates and
hone into the rhythm, essence, storyline, soul, melody of the waves.
If you were to compare this morning's waves to music, they were
very similar to Noise/ the Boredoms which morphed into
My Bloody Valentine, then inside section.
Every kind of wave morphed in and out during this messy hair day,
cornucopia of waves.
The one one that stood out was the infamous "Double up".
Oh how I love the Double up.
My friends used to blurt out "The Double UP!" so often in the past,
but only now do I understand what they actually meant.
It's when two waves are very close together, you catch the first one,
and as you are riding, the second one catches up and they morph together
into a turbo moment.
So the best part is coming.
I catch a wave here. I catch a wave there. But none are connecting the
outside section to the inside section. So I figured I'd try the trusty
old "Line up the chimney with the palm tree indicator".
I paddled to the spot, and sat far out. But bigger sets kept rolling in
forcing me to paddle deeper and deeper out until i was finally at the
"Outside Pocket" A nice size wave came, but behind it was one
a little bigger. I said, "Oooh, OK. Here we go." The first wave came and
three sea gulls or albatrosses flew the face of the wave coming right at
me. They looked me in the eye and said, "Its on Homey!"
The next wave came, It was bigger, and I caught that bad boy,
almost wiped on the take off but recovered to a glue foot stance,
just in time for the inside Double Up.
The sun shined on the blue bubbly face. The mutant wave morphed
into a raging youth beauty of a face with turbo injection.
Tick Tak, to MACH MODE, and race across the face and kick out.
Back to the top for one more. Through the junk, I paddle. A big mama
rolls through and I catch it. A big blob, I ride it on my belly through
some weird flats and pop up for, that's right, you guessed it,
THE INSIDE, DOUBLE UP, TURBO SECTION BABY!
My soul said, "OH GOD! FUCK YEAH!"SOO NICE! SOOO FAST! SO GOOD!"
The moral of the story? If it looks shitty out and 2 dudes are checkin' out
the waves contemplating, TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS. SHUT UP AND SURF.
Become one with the ocean. Watch what the birds do.
Tune in your radar to THE DOUBLE UP.
Sometimes fuck your trusty coordinates. When all else fails, trust your
trusty coordinates, and always keep your eyes on the waves to decipher
and HONE INTO THE POCKET.
-Manny Aloha aka Sir Glidesalot April 29, 2013
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