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Tuesday, October 6, 2015

Tales of a Honolulu Homeboy- SUPER CONNECT!

I dropped into the wave and everything turned silent. The water was clear and I saw a stray piece of seaweed floating. Time slowed down as the wave, my actions, and desires melted together- one moment stretched. I dragged my hand in the curl and my face in the lip. The sun shone bright. Up and down the wave I went all the way to the inner reef stoked.

I began to paddle back out only to get stuck inside. I was in the zone of white water, lips and curls- the Whitewash Museum. As the outside sets came pounding, I relaxed safe inside, and admired the infinite curvilinear forms and movements of whitewash- up, down, diagonal, sideways. As the big sets subsided, I paddled back out and observed a perfect mid size wave similar to my last. I called it the "Super Connector". It came hidden between unorganized brut waves, and looked like a Cool Guy or Hot Chick.  One approached and I yelled "Yee haw!" as I paddled to the pocket. As I dropped in,  inside my head I yelled, "Super Connect!"

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