Words

Writing actually helps communicate the complex feelings and experiences we have. The more we write and read, the better we get at communicating. One day I will be able to share the feelings I get when I'm in the water. I know this sounds dirty, but I told my friend Luke the other day when the South Shore had a good swell, I said, I'm so stoked. I'm gonna go molest those waves." I actually feel that way, and sometimes I feel the wave likes it. Sometimes I feel like the wave likes to get dirty with me, wants to get aggressive and sadomasochistic.

As a visual artist it is also good to be able to make that picture that says a thousand words. But for this moment I write. I need to work on my visual art skills. Balance it all.

When I was in the Philippines for a month, my family had a going away party for me. When they demanded a speech, I started reciting names of cousins, aunts and uncles I wanted to thank, and someone shouted out "Don't start with the names, because you'll leave someone out and they'll get upset." or something along these lines. I have a lot of aunts, uncles, and cousins. And as far as friends, there are a bunch that mean a lot to me and that have shaped who I am today. I feel lucky. The Internet keeps some of us together.

I don't have everything figured out, and I know I never will. That is like saying, I know what the wave will do. I know enough that waves will always eventually come, and I will catch a few, and that the wave always ends, but I can always paddle back for more, and that when the day is done, a new swell will always be back soon. And that the more you surf, the better you get.

Where am I going with this?
I don't know.
I 'll let you figure that out.
These were waves of words that your mind just surfed.
If you like the wave, maybe you'll come back for more.
I like that about Home Breaks (the wave you surf most)
Aloha.