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Sunday, April 17, 2011

Saturday work and play



Today I finally assembled and installed this tv stand and computer desk.
From 10am-2pm (including lunch) 
At 3pm it was extreme high tide. 
So I surfed a good high tide spot.
There were these 12-13 year old boogie boarders in the water 
making bird sounds and screaming"Yaaaahhhhhhhhh!!!!!" when they dropped in 
and "Aaaaaaaaaahhhhhh" when they dropped in on you.
Another was moaning and groaning like a cow while he waited for waves. 
His friend couldn't take it.
They were hilarious. 
There was an older boogie boarder who was in the water from 10:30- 4pm when I saw him. 
He might of even been there when I got out at 5pm.
He was my indicator. Stay 20 ft away from him, and catch the good set waves.

I call the this spot "Contemplators" because the wave peels slow and you can relax and contemplate while surfing the slow motion growing transition.
It makes you take a deep breath and be all mellow.
If you move to fast, you leave the wave behind.
But then all of a sudden it switches to fast motion and starts racing on the inside with big heavy reef heads below, which stick up during low tied but make for a good barrel during high.


Til later.
-Manny Aloha


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